Cycling Holland by Bike & Boat

Read Dana's Traveller Tale about her bike and barge experience in the Netherlands, where she encountered windmills, canals and historic towns like Delft, Amsterdam, Gouda and Utrecht. She travelled on the Southern Holland Bike & Barge itinerary.

Cycling in the Netherlands really is as good as everyone says.

I spent a week exploring the southern part of the country on a bike and boat trip and it quickly became one of the most relaxing cycling holidays I’ve ever done. The countryside is incredibly green, the towns are full of character, and the cycling infrastructure is honestly the best I’ve seen anywhere.

Most of the riding is flat (very flat!), the bike paths are everywhere, and the scenery rolls by gently - canals, windmills, birds, farmland and neat little villages.

The trip combines cycling with travelling on a barge, so your accommodation moves with you. You cycle during the day and in the evening return to the boat for dinner and a comfortable cabin. It’s a surprisingly easy and social way to explore a country.

The Netherlands Is Made for Cycling

If you enjoy cycling holidays, the Netherlands feels like paradise.

The dedicated cycle paths are extraordinary. They run through cities, countryside, forests and along canals. Even riding into larger cities like Utrecht or Amsterdam feels easy and safe.

The landscape itself is very soothing - wide green fields, water everywhere, and constant birdsong. I saw ducks, ducklings, geese, goslings, swans and cygnets almost every day. It felt wonderfully peaceful.

Another fascinating part of travelling here is seeing how the Dutch manage water. Windmills, pumping stations, canals and dykes all play a role in keeping the country dry. Once you start noticing it, the engineering behind it all becomes quite impressive.

Starting in Amsterdam

The trip begins in Amsterdam, which is always a great place to spend a little time before the cycling starts.

The city is beautiful - canals, historic houses and more bicycles than you can possibly imagine. Cycling is simply part of everyday life here.

From our mooring it was easy to explore the city before the welcome briefing and dinner on board. Then the next morning the real adventure began.

Cycling Along the River Vecht to Utrecht

The first ride started near the village of Breukelen and followed the River Vecht toward Utrecht.

This stretch of countryside is idyllic. Elegant country houses line the river, there are little tearooms tucked along the banks, and the road winds gently through villages that seem unchanged by time.

Utrecht itself is a lovely city. The Dom Tower dominates the skyline and the canals are lined with cafés built into old wharf cellars. It’s lively but still feels relaxed and very easy to explore by bike.

Windmills, Gin and Delft Blue

The next day’s ride passed through Schiedam, historically known as the Netherlands’ gin city. It’s famous for its towering windmills, some of the tallest in the world, which once powered the jenever distilling industry.

From there we continued to Delft - a highlight of the trip for many people.

Delft is known for its beautiful blue and white ceramics and its historic centre is picture-perfect. Canals, bridges, narrow streets and charming squares make it a wonderful place to wander for a while before continuing the ride.

Rotterdam and the Kinderdijk Windmills

Rotterdam is quite different from the other towns along the route. Much of it was rebuilt after WWII and today it’s known for modern architecture and a busy port atmosphere.

The following day we headed out toward one of the most famous sights in the Netherlands — the windmills of Kinderdijk.

There are nineteen historic windmills standing together along the waterways here, and seeing them in person is impressive. They’re part of a UNESCO World Heritage site and tell the story of how the Dutch have managed water for centuries.

Gouda and the Green Heart of Holland

From Kinderdijk the ride continues into the countryside known as the “Green Heart”.

This region is exactly what the name suggests: quiet farmland, canals, windmills and small villages scattered through green fields.

Along the way we passed traditional cheese farms and small country shops before arriving in Gouda.

Gouda was a lovely surprise. The historic centre is compact and beautiful, with a large market square and plenty of cafés. It’s the sort of town where you can happily wander for an hour or two without any plan.

Nearby is the small town of Schoonhoven, known for its silversmithing. Many visitors stop to see the traditional workshops and jewellery stores.

Another interesting stop along the route is Oudewater, home to the historic Witches Weigh House — a place where suspected witches were once weighed to prove their innocence.

Cycling to the North Sea

Later in the trip the route heads west through the Kennemer dunes toward the North Sea coast.

This section of cycling is quite different again. Instead of farmland, the landscape becomes sandy dunes and forests. There’s wildlife too - Scottish Highland cattle and wild ponies grazing in the national park.

The ride reaches the seaside towns of Bloemendaal and Zandvoort before looping back toward Haarlem.

Haarlem is a beautiful historic city and well worth exploring. The main square is lively and the large St Bavokerk church dominates the centre.

The Windmills of Schans

The final day of cycling visits Zaanse Schans, a popular centre with windmills, wooden houses and small workshops.

It’s quite touristy but still very charming. There’s a cheese farm, a wooden clog maker and several working windmills you can visit.

From there it’s an easy ride back toward Amsterdam through green countryside and parks.

A Relaxing Way to Travel

What surprised me most about this trip was how relaxing it felt.

The cycling is easy, the scenery is gentle and the days unfold at a comfortable pace. Some people ride together, others head off on their own, and you meet again back on the boat in the afternoon.

Tea and cake appear after the ride, dinner is served on board and the boat has great amenities.

It’s a wonderful way to experience the Netherlands.

Why a Bike & Boat Trip Works So Well in Holland

The Netherlands has everything you want for a cycling holiday — flat terrain, great bike paths, beautiful towns and fascinating landscapes.

Combining that with a comfortable barge makes the whole experience effortless.

If you enjoy cycling but also appreciate good food, comfortable accommodation and a relaxed pace of travel, exploring Holland by bike and boat is hard to beat.

>> View bike and barge cycling trips in the Netherlands

>> View the Southern Holland Bike & Barge