Hiking in Gran Paradiso: A Great Alternative to the TMB and Dolomites

Where is Gran Paradiso?

Our journey began in Bourg-Saint-Maurice, a gorgeous alpine town in France that is well worth an extra day or two. From there, we crossed into Italy's Aosta Valley, home to Gran Paradiso National Park.

Established in 1922, it's Italy's first national park and one of its most spectacular. The hike finishes at the historic Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II, a mountain lodge famous for its royal origins, unique architecture and its role as a base for climbers attempting Gran Paradiso.

Why I Chose Gran Paradiso

Ever since completing the Tour du Mont Blanc in 2018 and a guided hike in the Dolomites in 2023, I've been hooked on big mountain adventures.

I'd been dreaming of my next bucket-list alpine hike and, if I'm honest, I'm slightly obsessed with Italy. The final push came from my Dolomites guide, who told me Gran Paradiso was her favourite region: just as spectacular, but far less crowded than Mont Blanc. That sealed it.

How I Prepared

From past hikes in Europe, Canada and the Himalayas, I knew one thing: I never do enough stair training.

This time, I added regular sessions on the step machine at the gym. Surprisingly, it became something I looked forward to. Turns out a 30-minute Netflix episode makes it fly by.

I also started adding weight to my daypack during morning dog walks. On this trek you only carry essentials (water, lunch, rain gear), but training with extra weight made the real thing feel much easier.

Accommodation in Gran Paradiso

The accommodation here is simpler than what you'll find on the TMB or in the Dolomites, and honestly, that's part of the charm.

The huts feel more traditional and remote, offering a glimpse into the early days of alpine trekking. They're rustic but comfortable, with warm beds and hearty meals, all set in truly breathtaking locations. It adds to the sense of adventure.

What the Scenery is Like

The best word I can use is: wild.

The mountains feel bigger, more rugged and more untouched than on many popular alpine routes. The trails are quieter, with long stretches where we didn't see another hiker, but the trade-off is incredible wildlife. Spotting herds of ibex and chamois in their natural habitat was a definite highlight.

And then there was the glacier. Seeing one up close, especially as they become increasingly rare, felt incredibly special. Walking alongside it was one of those moments that really stays with you.

Food and Drink

After each day's hike, the routine was simple: shower, change, then straight to a cold beer or a glass of Italian wine while reliving the day.

The food in this region is quite different from classic Italian dishes. Influenced by the Aosta Valley and Piedmont, meals are hearty and perfect for cooler mountain evenings. Think rich stews, polenta, rice dishes and warming soups. Lunches featured local cheeses, cured meats and fresh salads prepared by our guide.

And of course, there's génépi, a local herbal liqueur made from alpine plants. I made it a bit of a ritual to try it most evenings.

How Challenging is the Trail?

I found Gran Paradiso slightly more challenging than both the TMB and the Dolomites, but in a rewarding way.

The main difference is the terrain. While the TMB passes through villages and well-maintained paths, Gran Paradiso feels more rugged, with rocky and uneven trails throughout the national park. The most challenging part wasn't necessarily the climbs. It was the constant focus needed on footing, especially on descents. Hiking poles made a big difference for balance and stability.

What Made This Trip Special

What surprised me most was the sense of wildness.

In a part of the world where many iconic trails are becoming increasingly busy, Gran Paradiso still feels remote and untouched. That sense of solitude, combined with the dramatic landscapes and wildlife, made the experience feel truly special. Another favourite memory was the late summer alpine swims. The lakes sit at over 2000 metres, fresh and incredibly refreshing.

Reaching Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II was another standout moment. Not only does it feel like a real achievement to get there, but you're surrounded by climbers preparing to summit the next morning. It adds an exciting, almost electric atmosphere.

Final Thoughts

If you're looking for an alpine hike that combines dramatic scenery, challenging trails and a genuine sense of wilderness without the crowds of more famous routes, Gran Paradiso is hard to beat. It's a place that feels raw, real and a little bit magical.

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