By Erin Williams

There’s no better way to discover southern France than by bike – unless, of course, you can also unpack just once, sleep aboard a floating hotel, and roll from vineyards to villages without worrying about your bags. That’s exactly what I experienced on the Provence Bike & Barge trip, a journey that took me from the wilds of the Camargue to the heart of Provence, with all the colours, flavours and history in between.

I joined a group of 18 fellow travellers from across the world – couples from Australia, the UK, Germany, Sweden and the USA. While we came from different countries, the shared experience of cycling, exploring, and dining together quickly made us a cohesive group. I was the only solo traveller, but I always had someone to chat to on deck, over dinner, or on the daily rides.

 

Our floating home was L’Estello, a charming barge that cruised the Rhône and its connected canals. It had everything you’d want for a week’s adventure: a spacious saloon for post-ride relaxing, comfortable cabins, and a kitchen that delivered multi-course French meals featuring regional specialties. Our guide Barbara – a multilingual marvel from Italy – led us with warmth and efficiency, giving us daily briefings and keeping everyone well-supported on and off the bikes.

 

 

We began in the medieval town of Aigues-Mortes, with its fairytale watchtowers and history as a port to the Mediterranean. From here, we pedalled deep into the Camargue, a natural wonderland of salt flats, wild white horses, flamingos, and open skies. The riding was mostly flat here, but we did contend with some mighty headwinds – the Mistral makes sure you earn that glass of local rosé at day’s end!

 

On Day 2, we rode around Avignon, crossing the island of Île de la Barthelasse and soaking in views of orchards, vineyards and the Rhône itself. After cycling to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, once home to wandering popes and cardinals, we had time to explore Avignon’s famous Pont St Bénezet and palace-studded old town.

A favourite day for many was the ride to the Pont du Gard – Europe’s best-preserved Roman aqueduct. The engineering alone is impressive, but cycling right up to it made the moment unforgettable. That afternoon, we moored in Aramon with views toward the towering Mont Ventoux.

From Vallabrègues, we looped through the Abbey of Saint Michel de Frigolet and back via peaceful villages, stopping for picnics and photos beneath the plane trees. It was a slower, more traditional rhythm of Provence that day, and a lovely contrast to the days ahead.

 

 

By Day 5, we were riding into the Alpilles foothills, with their limestone ridges, olive groves and lavender fields. We visited Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where Van Gogh painted prolifically during his stay at the local monastery. It’s hard not to be inspired here – even the light feels artistic. We continued on to Les Baux-de-Provence, perched high on a rocky outcrop. It’s a short but steep climb – some took the van, and I can’t blame them – but the views and charm were worth every pedal.

That evening we arrived in Arles, where Roman ruins and artistic heritage collide. A guided walk through this UNESCO town helped us make sense of its layers of history, from the Roman arena to Renaissance squares.

Later that day, we cycled to Franquevaux, then cruised back to Aigues-Mortes. Along the way, I tried a fougasse, a sweet brioche-style local pastry flavoured with orange blossom. It may just be my favourite discovery of the trip.

 

 

Our final day was a loop ride through the Camargue wetlands to the port village of Le Grau-du-Roi. With canals, lagoons and flamingos around every corner, the route was scenic, wild and peaceful. A dip in the Mediterranean (for the brave!) and a lazy afternoon ride took us back to the boat one last time.

Each evening, we shared meals on board – fresh salads, Provençal mains, and generous desserts. The wine list was well priced and regionally focused, and the crew made every meal feel special. Our guide catered to different needs, including e-bike users and riders wanting a more relaxed pace.

 

 

This isn’t a “sit back and relax” cruise – you’ll be active each day – but it’s ideal for those who love slow, immersive travel. You’ll explore villages that don’t make the tourist maps, eat seasonal food, and see the Provence of lavender, limestone, and artists’ dreams.

For me, it was more than just a cycling holiday – it was a window into the heart of southern France, from flamingo-dotted salt pans to Roman aqueducts and fields of poppies. And sharing it with new friends on a boat gently rocking on the Rhône? That was the bonus I didn’t know I needed.

 

 

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