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Walking the Islands of Malta: Traveller Tale
By Pat Rochon
We arrived in Malta in early spring, and the Islands of Malta Walk quickly became one of those trips I know we'll always remember. I'm not sure exactly what I expected, but what I found was a destination that felt incredibly alive. Wildflowers in bloom everywhere, lush green countryside surrounding us at every turn, and trails so quiet it often felt like we had the landscape entirely to ourselves. Here's how it unfolded, day by day.
Day 1: Arriving in Rabat
Malta is so small that we took an Uber from Valletta's Old Town mid-morning and were in central Rabat within 15 minutes. While local buses are available, navigating luggage over cobblestone streets isn't the most practical option, so a taxi or Uber is worth it for arrival day.
We'd already spent a few days in Valletta before the walk began, which I'd highly recommend to anyone who can manage it. Arriving early gave us time to adjust to the jet lag and explore this remarkable city properly, and in our case, to celebrate a milestone birthday, which made the experience even more special.
As it was our official arrival day on the tour, we joined a free walking tour of the old city of Mdina which was a fantastic two-hour introduction to the history of this ancient walled city and neighbouring Rabat. We'd previously done tours in Valletta that were led by a knowledgeable young Maltese guide who spoke excellent English. This was our third "free" tour of the trip (tips are expected and well deserved), and it set the tone perfectly for the week ahead.
We were staying at a heritage hotel - a charming 400-year-old property right in the heart of Rabat, just a short walk from the medieval walled city of Mdina. It's a wonderful base, perfectly positioned for nearby restaurants and shops.
Day 2: Ħaġar Qim and the Dingli Cliffs
After a brilliant night's sleep and what I can only describe as a 'breakfast of champions' with fresh orange juice, eggs cooked to your preference, local honey, meats, cheeses, fruit, oatmeal and unlimited coffee, we were picked up by our transfer driver Christian. Punctual, friendly and full of local knowledge.
Christian dropped us off at the Blue Grotto, which was at the end of a scenic coastal road, the dramatic cliffside rock formations were absolutely worth it.
From the Blue Grotto, we continued on foot to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ħaġar Qim, dating back to between 3600 and 3200 BC. Built by Neolithic civilisations, this remarkable stone complex is genuinely impressive.
The coastal walk toward Dingli Cliffs that followed was generally very pleasant, alternating between footpaths and sections of asphalt road. From the Dingli Cliffs viewpoint, we decided to walk all the way back to Rabat rather than take the bus. It was a long day but absolutely worth every step.
Day 3: Coastal Walking to Popeye Village and the Ferry to Gozo
Another sunny morning, another excellent breakfast, and Christian right on time to take us to Mġarr for the start of the coastal walk to Popeye Village.
The scenery along the way was incredible with spectacular views of beaches and coastline at every turn. We would have loved to stop for a swim at Għajn, a beautiful beach beneath the clay cliffs, but with the sea at only 10°C in March, it wasn't quite an option. Come summer, it would be perfect.
Popeye Village itself was a fun stop. I even had my moment of fame, being chosen to play a villain in a short film they were shooting on site! It's a little touristy, but genuinely worth a visit to see this unique film set in such a beautiful cove, particularly for families.
At 4pm we contacted Christian for pickup and he drove us to Ċirkewwa for the ferry crossing to Mġarr on Gozo Island. Everything went smoothly. The ferry was pleasant, and the transfer to our hotel in Għarb on the other side was seamless.
Day 4: The Cliffs of Gozo: Għarb to Dwejra Bay
Our accommodation for the next two nights was a 'farmhouse' in Għarb - a beautifully restored 18th-century stone villa that was a wonderful surprise after arriving from the ferry. From the outside it blends into the surrounding stone buildings, but inside reveals a stunning space full of charm and character. Plus there's a pool. Our hosts Federico and Claudia were exceptional. They were warm, welcoming and attentive throughout. We could easily have stayed longer. The property fully deserves its outstanding 9.9 rating.The walk itself was one of the highlights of the trip. The route from Għarb to the coast runs along quiet secondary country roads, passing the imposing Ta' Pinu Basilica in the early morning stillness. At the coast we were rewarded with some incredible sights, including the ancient Roman salt pans.
We hiked along the coast to Dwejra Bay on an extremely windy day, with panoramic cliff views stretching in every direction. We arrived a little too late for a boat trip into the grottos, but we were treated to a beautiful sunset before heading back to Għarb by Uber.
Once again, we felt fortunate to have much of the trail to ourselves. Dwejra Bay was a little busier, but I could only imagine how it gets in peak season.
We happily returned both evenings to Il-Kunvent, a former convent turned restaurant in the village centre, where the food was excellent and very reasonably priced.
Day 5: Xlendi to Victoria on a Rainy Day
Our first rainy and very windy day. The transfer from our accommodation to Xlendi was, as always, punctual, and we set off on the coastal route past farmers' fields and stunning cliff views.
By the time we reached Sannat, the heavy rain and poor visibility led us to abandon the planned route and head straight for Victoria instead.
Our home for the final three nights was a boutique hotel in Victoria. The front desk staff were outstanding, and they had been informed of my milestone birthday in advance. We were upgraded to a room with a hot tub on a lovely private terrace. A wonderful surprise.
The hotel's location was perfect as it was just a few minutes' walk to the old town and about ten minutes to the bus station. There's also a full grocery store on the first floor of the complex, which was genuinely useful for stocking up on fruit and snacks for the next day's walk. Victoria has no shortage of restaurants in the evenings, and our front desk staff were excellent at pointing us toward the best options each night. Reservations are definitely recommended.
Day 6: Museums and the Coast to Ramla Beach
Our last proper hiking day, and we decided to make it our own. We started by visiting the Ġgantija Archaeological Park before setting off on a beautiful coastal hike along the northwestern coast. The trail was steep at times, but the coastal views made every bit of effort worthwhile.
We finished at Ramla Bay - Gozo's famous beach with its distinctive red sand - and waited for the bus back to Victoria. A perfect final day on the trails.
Day 7: Victoria and the Ferry Back to Valletta
Our last day on Gozo before the late-afternoon ferry back to Valletta. We spent a relaxed morning exploring Victoria's old town, including the impressive Citadel. Wandering through the narrow, historic streets was a perfect way to end the walking portion of the trip. By 4pm we had checked out and made our way to the ferry.
Overall, Gozo was our favourite of the two islands. The walks are dramatic, the accommodation is exceptional and the food is outstanding. We would recommend this trip wholeheartedly to anyone looking for coastal walking in a destination that still feels genuinely undiscovered.
Malta is a beautiful country, with truly wonderful people.
> View the Islands of Malta Walking Holiday
Practical Information
When to Go
The tour operates daily from 15 September to 15 May. March is an excellent time to visit as the countryside is lush, the trails are quiet and the temperatures are ideal for walking (15–18°C during the day). Pack layers for cool evenings, and plan for a mix of sun and rain. The sea will be cold for swimming, but the walking conditions are superb.
Getting There
All international flights arrive into Valletta. We'd highly recommend arriving a few days early to explore the city before the walk begins. From Valletta, a taxi or Uber to Rabat (your starting point) takes around 15 minutes and costs approximately €10–12.
The UTracks Navigation App
The app is excellent overall. Well-designed, easy to follow and with clear voice-guided turn-by-turn directions. It handles both rural and urban sections well, and makes it simple to rejoin the route if you take a detour. Carry a fully charged power bank each day, as the app draws steadily on your phone battery over a long walking day.
What to Pack
Bring layers, rain gear and sunscreen. There is very little tree coverage on the trails, so you'll be exposed to sun, wind and rain depending on conditions. Comfortable, sturdy footwear is essential as some sections are rocky and the terrain can be uneven.
>> View the Islands of Malta Coastal Walk